Automotive Lifestyle
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AUTOS: Getting That Show Car Shine
It’s all in the detailing, and a car-care expert explains how those Barrett-Jackson auction cars look so fine when they hit the stage.
David Harris  |  Posted June 23, 2012   Costa Mesa, CA
Michael Stoops, Meguiar’s Internet Technical Specialist, shows some of the tricks of the detailing trade. (Photo: David Harris)
It’s hard not to watch a Barrett-Jackson Collector Car Auction, like the one that SPEED’s covering this weekend from Orange County, Calif., and not notice that each vehicle is immaculately presented. They each have that “new car” look.

If you’re a car enthusiast, you take a certain pride in the care of your favorite ride, and cleaning it on a regular basis is part of your routine. But as for taking that gleam to the next level, there are a few more steps to that process, especially if your primary goal is to get it ready for sale.

While thousands of dollars can be sunk into having it professionally detailed, most pre-sale and show prep can be completed by you – with similar spectacular results. SPEED caught up this weekend with Michael Stoops, Meguiar’s Internet Technical Specialist, who took time out of his busy weekend demonstrations to help you get your car prepared for consignment, or that next “show n’ shine.”

The correct cloths and products are critical for getting that collector car gleaming. (Photo: David Harris)
The most basic step is to wash and dry the vehicle. Nothing fancy, but a good old pressure wash is preferred. You can do it at home, or take it over to your local car wash. It’s the same process you have been using for years. Where you want to pay attention is when you get ready to dry your car, as the material used makes a difference.

“Chamois are kind of a double-edged sword,” Stoops said. “They are super-absorbent, which is why everybody loves them, but there’s no place to go when particles get onto it and drag against the paint, potentially scratching it. Our preference is to use waffle-weave style microfiber drying towels. It’s not a polishing cloth because those aren’t absorbent. Our’s is called the Meguiar’s Water Magnet, which is highly water absorbent, but microfiber and delicate to the paint surface.”

Once you finish up the basic wash and dry, you need to inspect the vehicle and carefully go over each section. According to Stoops, there are two primary inspections that need to take place: the first is literally touching the paint with your hands and feeling for rough spots. If one is located, you need to take care of it.

“That’s where the clay bar comes in,” Stoops said. “Those (rough spots) are the bonded surface contaminants that washing doesn’t remove. The clay bar is designed to remove that, and only that. It will make that point nice and as smooth as glass again.

“The important thing however, is to use plenty of Meguair’s Quick Detailer as a lubricant for the clay,” Stoops added. “Don’t let that surface get dry or the clay will start to stick to the paint. Get it good and wet. You don’t need a lot of pressure on that clay bar, just enough so that you don’t drop it. It’s not a real labor-intensive process, so don’t work too hard at it.

“You move that clay bar very quickly, almost splashing the liquid around what you have on there. It’s that easy. A full-size vehicle for example, even looking at ’57 Chevy (or similar), there’s a lot of square footage there. You should be able to clay that car in 20 minutes. It’s a quick process.”

The next inspection needs to be done under a strong light source. You are looking for visual swirl marks and defects in the paint itself. Those imperfections should be removed using a liquid paint cleaner, which is a very fine, liquid abrasive. Stoops described the process.

“Swirl marks come from improper washing techniques,” Stoops said. “We see guys all the time with show cars who dry wipe their cars to get dust off. That’s just grinding that dirt and dust into the paint, which also creates a fine line of little scratches. Those detract very noticeably from the finish and from the reflectiveness of the paint.

“Something like Meguair’s Ultimate Compound can be used by hand or a dual-action polisher,” Stoops added. “That will remove those fine swirls and kind of round off the edges of those sharp (paint defects) smoothing and flattening out the surface, giving it that uniform, glossy, reflective finish.”

The last step in taking care of the body is the traditional wax. However, if you have a dark-colored vehicle, there’s another optional step you may want to consider.

“On a darker colored car, going with a clear polish can really help to enhance the polish and the depth of color. You want a depth that the whites and silvers really don’t show. If you have a dark-colored car, it’s not a bad idea to do that extra step of polish that will really darken the color, and may even hide and conceal some of those little swirl marks you didn’t get out.”

For some, waxing a car is a labor of love, with an emphasis on labor. They meticulously rub wax throughout the vehicle, wait for it to haze and wipe it off with similar vigor. While effective, especially if you are proficient at it, the process can take its toll, not only physically, but in the overall performance quality. There’s a much more efficient and effective option.

“A good power tool, like a dual-action polisher is not going to get tired like you are,” Stoops said. “It will give you a uniform result more quickly and more easily around the whole car.

“When you are working with a polisher or liquid paint cleaner, these are products that you do not want to let dry on the surface,” Stoops continued. “So you are going to work roughly within a two-foot square area at a time. You work until that product looks pretty thin and translucent on the surface, then wipe it off right away and move on to the next sections. You’ve got to kind of patch work your way around the car.”
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David Harris

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